Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a exclusive group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it joins a international community of cities metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city arrives as little surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has perennially characterized its heart: an unparalleled love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are little shops and kiosks – little-known treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their children are unwilling to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to learn these narratives and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
